The Little Rann of Kutch (LRK) is a vast desert and a seasonal salt marsh near the northern frontier of Gujarat. It is the last remaining stronghold of the Indian Wild Ass or Khur, which roams the ~5000sq.km. Wild Ass Sanctuary situated in the rann (desert in Gujarati). A popular tourist destination, LRK attracts wildlife photographers from across the world to shoot the wild ass and the scores of migratory birds that flock here during the winter season. The internet holds witness to the striking landscape and portrait shots of this unique terrain and its charismatic wildlife. The wildlife in these photographs stands out against a seemingly barren and monotonous background, which adds to its appeal. My understanding of LRK and its wildlife has predominantly been shaped by these images.

This was until I visited the Wild Ass Sanctuary in person for the first time in the summer of 2024. Desert summers are incredibly harsh, and yet I timed my visit during this particular period for two reasons. First, the wildlife here has evolved unique adaptations to survive the peak desert heat, and it is only during the summer that one can contextualise and appreciate them. Second, very few tourists and photographers visit LRK during the summer months to avoid the heat, which means fewer crowds and an overall better experience.

My trip to LRK completely changed my perception of the Wild Ass Sanctuary and the surrounding rann. This photo story is my attempt to showcase the reality of the Indian Wild Ass and its co-inhabitants.

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The Indian Wild Ass is a herd-living endemic equine species. Its population recovery from about 400 in the late 1990s to more than 6000 individuals is one of India’s celebrated conservation success stories. Photograph: Divyajyoti Ganguly
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Indian Wild Asses are largely restricted to the Little Rann of Kutch, Gujarat, which is a low-lying flatland. Much of this landscape is devoid of vegetation, especially during the summer months. Photograph: Divyajyoti Ganguly
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In this vast emptiness, the Indian Wild Ass feeds on the sparsely distributed morar (Sueda sp.), a salt and moisture-rich shrub, and on the seed pods of the patchily occurring and invasive Prosopis juliflora. Photograph: Divyajyoti Ganguly
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The wild ass has evolved to survive in the extreme desert heat. Its pale coat reflects the sun’s heat, preventing its body from overheating during the daytime. In a water-scarce environment, it derives much of its moisture requirements from its food, and its physiology helps it tolerate a salt-heavy diet. Photograph: Divyajyoti Ganguly
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Despite being remote and seemingly inhospitable, the habitat of the Indian Wild Ass is not free of human exploitation. Polluting industries line the boundary of the Wild Ass Sanctuary. Photograph: Divyajyoti Ganguly
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The Indian Wild Ass also shares its habitat with the Agariya community—traditional salt makers who settle within the sanctuary during the dry season. Photograph: Priyanka Das
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The Agariyas pump salty water from underground into artificially carved salt pans. A combination of evaporation and transfer to adjacent salt pans renders the water extremely saturated with salt. It is then that the salt crystallises out of its dissolved form. Photograph: Divyajyoti Ganguly
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This traditional process of manufacturing salt also entails the sole livelihood of the Agariyas. However, this practice is threatened by the government’s proposed plans to create the Rann Sarovar—an artificial perennial lake to help boost recreational activities in the sanctuary. The construction of this lake, once complete, will inundate large swathes of land, drowning these salt pans along with wild ass habitat. Photograph: Divyajyoti Ganguly
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Apart from the Indian wild ass, LRK also hosts breeding populations of other habitat-sensitive species, such as the Desert Fox. Photograph: Divyajyoti Ganguly
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As of now, the landscape within the Wild Ass Sanctuary remains largely intact, owing to its protection status. However, the area outside the sanctuary is rapidly changing. Agricultural practices are on the rise, attracting foraging wild asses, which leads to human-wildlife conflict, a novel and poorly understood phenomenon in this landscape. Photograph: Divyajyoti Ganguly