Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary
One of India’s best birdwatching hotspots is known for its biodiversity, as well as its interesting history
Suchi Govindarajan
The Silver-breasted Broadbill (Serilophus lunatus) appears both coy and thoughtful as it peers through the foliage.
Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary
Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary, one of India’s top birdwatching hotspots, is located in the West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh.
Eaglenest shot into the limelight after the discovery of a new bird species, the colourful Bugun Liocichla, described in 2006 and named after the Bugun community that lives in these forests. However, with about 700 species of birds, including the prized Ward’s Trogon, Beautiful Nuthatch and Wedge-Billed Babbler, there is enough diversity to keep any enthusiast occupied.
But Eaglenest isn’t just significant for its biodiversity – it’s rich in history, too. In the 1950s, the Red Eagle division of the Indian Army was stationed here, giving the sanctuary the distinctive name it is known by today. You can still see evidence of the once-abundant army presence along the Foothill-Chaku-Tenga (FCT) road, a single-lane jeep track laid by soldiers that runs through the heart of Eaglenest.
Plan Your Trip
Getting there
Air
The nearest airport is Tezpur (about 150km away) but flights are infrequent. It's a better idea to fly to Guwahati and then travel 335km, or 8-9 hours by road.
Rail
The nearest railway station is Bhalukpong (around 94km away).
Road
The drive from Tezpur to Tenga, a town about 17km from Eaglenest, takes around 3.5 hours, but to drive uphill from Tenga to Lama Camp (the first campsite in Eaglenest), takes about 1.5-2 hours because of the conditions of the roads.
The most convenient way to get to Eaglenest is to hire a car and driver from Tezpur or Guwahati. It would be useful to retain the vehicle through the duration of your stay in Eaglenest. For those on a budget, there are buses and share-taxis available from Guwahati and Tezpur up to Tenga. However, you will have to hire a vehicle to travel from Tenga to Eaglenest.
Note: You should mark Tenga and the Lama Camp on Google Maps before you go, in case your driver hasn’t been there before. Google’s directions from Tenga to Lama Camp are accurate except for one bridge across the river that doesn’t exist (however, if you look at the map, you will see another bridge a short distance away). The drive from Tenga to Eaglenest takes you through a large army camp. Very few people here recognise the name Eaglenest, especially if they are army folk. If you’re lost, just ask for directions to Singchung village, which is just before the Eaglenest Sanctuary entrance.
Google Map Coordinates:
best time to visit
Summer: March and April are the best months to see birds at Eaglenest. This is when the rhododendrons are in full bloom. However, the camps are also in high demand at this time, so you’ll need to book well in advance.
Winter: Mid-November to February is also a good time to visit, if you can brave the chilly temperatures at night. Due to the abundance of birds at Eaglenest, bird activity is still quite high. The camps aren’t as busy at this time.
The sanctuary is not open to the public during the monsoon season, from June to September.
Stay
Lama Camp and Bompu Camp are the main campsites run by the Bugun Welfare society.
Lama Camp, named in honour of the Dalai Lama’s visit, is closer to the entrance of the Eaglenest sanctuary. The route that’s now traversed by birdwatchers was once the path through which people fled to safety during the Indo-China war of 1962. In 1959, when the Dalai Lama escaped from China to seek refuge in India, he too crossed over using this very road. The Lama Camp is named in his honour, and one of the trees he planted in Khellong is still revered today
Bompu Camp, named after the local word for bamboo, is about 40km away. Both campsites have permanent tents complete with bedding and towels and solar lanterns. Bathrooms are in a common block, and are equipped with western-style toilets and toilet paper. There is no running water at either of the sites, but the staff fill buckets of water periodically, and they will bring you hot water when you need it. There is no electricity either, but generators are turned on for a few hours in the evening. If you have a device that needs charging, you can charge it during that time. In terms of accessibility, you will need to climb a few sets of wooden steps to reach the tents at Lama Camp; Bompu Camp is relatively flat.
It is a good idea to stay at both Lama Camp and Bompu Camp if you can. As you travel from one camp to another, you can birdwatch along the way. Your guide should be able to help you with this. Typically, you would take a packed breakfast or lunch from one of the camps and proceed to the other. There’ll be both walking and driving; having your own vehicle is handy for excursions like this.
To make bookings for your stay at Lama and Bompu camps, contact Mr Indi Glow of the Bugun Welfare Society in Tenga on +918729915566 or on [email protected]. You can also contact the Lama Camp manager, Mr Nima Tsering, on +917085424165.
There is also a Forest Rest House in Ramalingam, about 8km from the entrance of Eaglenest.
Gallery
Looking out towards the village of Tenga.
The Bugun Liocichla (Liocichla bugunorum), first described in 2006, is a prized but elusive sighting. Its numbers are small and it has a propensity to lurk in the undergrowth.
A Yellow-rumped Honeyguide (Indicator xanthonotus) perched on a cliff near an old beehive.
Rhododendron flowers provide rich fodder for birds such as this Rusty-fronted Barwing (Actinodura egertoni).
Rhododendrons are in full bloom in March and April.
Wildflowers dot the hillsides in one of the sections between Lama Camp and Bompu Camp.
A young Himalayan Striped Squirrel (Tamiops mcclellandii) is referred to as a pup, kit or kitten.
The FCT Road is lined with old military watchtowers, resthouses and camps. This is an army outpost at Chaku.
The permanent tents at Lama Camp overlook the valley.
Add More Images
See | Do | Shop
- Eaglenest has no organised safaris. You are likely to be out for hours at a stretch with your guide on the FCT road. While most birdwatchers and photographers look out for rare, endemic species like the Bugun Liocichla, Ward’s Trogon, Beautiful Nuthatch and the Wedge-Billed Babbler, you can also delight in the abundance of all the other birds here, and the sheer beauty of the environment. Species of laughing thrush change at every elevation, and seem to stalk you as they pass through the undergrowth. They call loudly, but only rarely come out into the open.
- When in bloom during the months of March and April, the rhododendrons make a beautiful foreground to vistas of mountains and valleys.
- Make sure to observe the different types of forests at each elevation: tropical evergreen forests at the lower levels, temperate broad-leaved forests in the middle, and alpine coniferous forests at the higher altitudes.
- Savour this magical landscape: look out for waterfalls decorated with wildflowers, large cut-away cliffs studded with beehives, and little streams with mud-puddling butterflies at their banks. The velvety mosses and the rolling mist over the treetops add to the experience.
- You can combine your trip to Eaglenest with a visit to Nameri National Park, 120km from Eaglenest. This way, you can also break up the rather long drive from Guwahati to Eaglenest. Plan to spend at least one or two full days in Nameri.
- Pakke Wildlife Sanctuary is also in the same region. However, this is a bit of a detour from the main Guwahati-Eaglenest route. Reaching Pakke Jungle Eco-Camp, the main accommodation there, takes about 6-7 hours from Eaglenest. You will need at least two full days in Pakke.
- Buy souvenirs and handicrafts from Chowk Bazaar on MC Road in Tezpur.
- Balipara, with its fruit stalls, sweet shops and small cafés, makes for a good pitstop, between Tezpur and Eaglenest. Modak Sweets near the main junction, on Bhalukpong Road, has excellent tea, cake and biscuits.
- Nagmandir is a good place to stop for a meal along the route from Bhalukpong and Eaglenest
Good to know
- All visitors to Arunachal Pradesh, including Indians, require a permit to visit the state. These permits are checked at the border. Indian nationals require an Inner Line Permit (ILP) and foreign nationals require a Restricted Area Permit (RAP). If you’re using a travel agent, they will be able to arrange this for you. Permits are also available at the Guwahati Airport. Visit the official Arunachal Tourism site for details.
- Eaglenest can get very cold at night; ask the staff for a hot-water bottle if you need it.
The food is vegetarian, but they do serve eggs, all deliciously prepared without the conveniences of a gas stove or running water.
- Remember to call the camp to confirm your arrival at least a day in advance, so that the staff can arrange meals for you. This is particularly important in the lean season when the camps may not be full.
- Plan your journey so you reach the campsite before dark.
- Your mobile phone will work at Lama Camp, and you will be able to access 3G on the Airtel network. At Bompu Camp and in more remote parts of the sanctuary, mobile networks, including BSNL, are unreliable.
- Tenga is the nearest town with facilities such as ATMs, petrol bunks, pharmacies, convenience stores, and a hospital. You should refuel your vehicle here before proceeding up to Eaglenest.
- There are toilets at the two camps, but not in other locations. Be prepared to go behind the bushes when you’re out and about during the day.
- Be careful not to litter the sanctuary, especially with plastic trash. Keep your trash with you until you can dispose of it responsibly.
- Always heed the advice of your guide and the camp staff, and be prepared to retreat or change routes if you encounter an elephant.
What to pack
- A pair of binoculars
- Your camera gear, along with rain-covers
- A torch. A headlamp is also useful for when you need to use the bathroom after dark.
- Spare batteries and chargers for your camera, mobile phone and torches.
- Remember to check weather forecasts before you go. In winter, you will need layered clothing – pack thermal underwear, a jacket, a woollen cap or beanie, gloves and warm socks. For a summer trip, pack full-sleeved cotton clothing, and don’t forget your sunscreen. Regardless of the season, always carry a hat as you will be out walking for most of the day. The sun is quite sharp even during the colder months.
- Even as late as February, there may be frost on the ground in the morning, so pack waterproof trekking shoes.
- A bird-watching field guide and bird checklists are useful here, because of the sheer number of birds you will spot.
- A first-aid kit as well as any prescription medicines you might need.
- Instant coffee powder for those who can’t do without their morning caffeine fix. The camps do stock coffee powder but quantities may be limited.
For photographers
- A lens of at least 300mm focal length is essential, since many of the birds you will see are quite small in size.
- Remember that in winter months, till around February or so, you will be shooting in low-light conditions in the mornings and evenings. Birds like laughing thrushes and Bugun Liocichla might also stay tucked away in the undergrowth.
- Carry a wide-angle lens to capture some of the stunning landscapes at Eaglenest.
- Take a tripod if you want to shoot night sky scenes. Bompu Camp is a great vantage point for these shots.
Don't Miss
- Stay up late to watch the stars, especially at Bompu Camp, where the wide open spaces all around will encourage hours of sky gazing.
- At Lama camp, you should take time out to simply sit back and take in the glorious mountainous vista.
The sanctuary is also an important region for butterflies and moths. New species of ants, lizards and frogs have also been discovered here. Visitors should look out for mammals such as wild dogs, serows, capped langurs, gaurs, elephants and the recently discovered Arunachal Macaque.
Khellong, close to Bompu camp, is an interesting place to visit. You can take a short stroll there to see the Holy Tree of Khellong, planted by the Dalai Lama in 1959. Local lore has it that the Dalai Lama mistakenly trampled a tree sapling while walking along a path. Seeking to amend his mistake, he replanted the sapling, but he planted it upside down. By some miracle, as though nature were heeding his intent and not his action, the tree still grew.
Budget per person
The cost of renting a vehicle varies widely. However, for a roundtrip from Guwahati to Eaglenest you’ll pay about Rs 4,000 per day for a car such as a Mahindra Bolero with a driver, which will be comfortable for a group of three.
Depending on which camp you’re staying at, accommodation costs range from Rs 2,500 (at Bompu Camp) to Rs 2,800 (at Lama Camp) per person per night. This includes all meals. You will also need to pay entry fees at the Eaglenest Sanctuary entrance: Rs 100 per person, and Rs 300 for cameras.
Hiring a guide for the entire duration of your stay in Eaglenest is recommended. The guides at Lama Camp charge Rs 2,500 per day (which can be shared across a small group), and it is a good idea to book them in advance. Bompu Camp doesn’t have resident guides, but, given sufficient notice, guides from Lama Camp will accompany you there. If you’re travelling with a tour operator, they may have their own guides, but do make sure they have been to the sanctuary before.
Tuesday, 11 April, 2017
We love a good critique but are infinitely partial to compliments. Both, roars and birdsong are welcome at [email protected]
Suchi Govindarajan
Writer
Suchi Govindarajan works as a technical writer and pretends to be a photographer. In her spare time, she enjoys writing humour pieces and poetry. She hates brinjals. You can read her work at http://www.suchiswriting.com. She posts as @suchiswriting on Instagram.
Story recommendations
- Thoothoor
- Muttom
- Kanyakumari
- Manapad
- Dhanushkodi
- Puducherry
- Alamparai
- Chennai
- Andaman & Nicobar
- Andhra Pradesh
- Arunachal Pradesh
- Assam
- Bihar
- Chandigarh
- Chhattisgarh
- Dadra and Nagar Haveli
- Daman and Diu
- NCT of Delhi
- Goa
- Gujarat
- Haryana
- Himachal Pradesh
- Jammu and Kashmir
- Jharkhand
- Karnataka
- Kerala
- Lakshadweep
- Madhya Pradesh
- Maharashtra
- Manipur
- Meghalaya
- Mizoram
- Nagaland
- Odisha
- Puducherry
- Punjab
- Rajasthan
- Sikkim
- Tamil Nadu
- Telangana
- Tripura
- Uttar Pradesh
- Uttarakhand
- West Bengal
