Hemis National Park

Head over for stunning vistas of sweeping valleys, white-tipped mountains, and the chance to spot the Snow Leopard

Shikha Tripathi

Hemis National Park

India’s only national park north of the Himalayas, Hemis National Park is a high-altitude park in eastern Ladakh, in the state of Jammu and Kashmir. Barely 40 km from Leh, the park consists of the catchment areas of Markha, Sumdah and Rumbak, and is bordered by the Indus river and sections of the Zanskar mountains.

Spread over more than 4,400 kilometres, the park harbours rare wildlife, including the elusive shan or Snow Leopard. Hemis offers stunning vistas of sweeping valleys and snow-tipped mountains, wide streams and pastoral banks dotted with darting marmots.

Best explored on foot, Hemis is also criss-crossed with plenty of trekking trails, the most well-known of which is the Markha Valley trail. Experienced hikers should attempt the Stok Kangri trek. At an elevation of 6,153m, this is highest trekkable summit in India.



Plan Your Trip

Getting there

Air

Leh is the nearest airport (42km, 50 mins). Delhi is the only metro that is connected to Leh; other cities are connected to Leh via Delhi, though you can also connect via Srinagar. Make sure to enjoy the stellar aerial views of the Himalayas. But be prepared for delays and cancellations, especially in the winter.

Rail

There is no rail option for Ladakh.

Road

The drive from Manali to Leh (490 km) has often been dubbed one of the most scenic in the world. It’s a great way to get there and also acclimatise gradually to the altitude.

best time to visit

The best time to visit Hemis National Park is from May to September, but parts of it can be visited throughout the year, depending on what you’re looking for.

Summer: While the rest of India deals with the raging monsoon in July and August, the Ladakh plateau, located in the Himalayan rainshadow, enjoys a blissful summer. Afternoons can be warm in Hemis, with temperatures touching 25°C, but evenings drop to a cool 15°C. This is the ideal time to do the Markha Valley trek. May-June, and September-October are good windows for birding.

Winter: Winter officially sets in by November onwards, and lingers till about April. Temperatures can go down to a harsh -30°C. Daytime temperatures range between -10°C and -15°C, and get closer to zero towards spring. Some of the road routes could close due to heavy snowfall but certain valleys, like Rumbak, can be reached on foot. This is the best time to spot winter wildlife, especially the elusive Snow Leopard.

Stay

In the Hemis wilderness, there aren’t too many options to choose from. The best way to experience the hinterland is by staying at one of the homestays dotting the park. Himalayan Homestays is a great initiative through which villagers take turns to host guests. They provide clean and comfortable bedding in their traditional homes, along with simple, piping-hot meals. Brace yourself for the dry compost Ladakhi toilet, and bucket baths. (₹800 per person inclusive of meals).

In Rumbak village, the Chunpa Homestay is run by lovely hosts Namgyal and his wife Tsering. The only other option is to camp, which is great for those with a zest for adventure. The basic comforts of a homestay would be foregone, but camping offers an unparalleled outdoor experience. You could either be self-sufficient, or use a trekking agency like Rimo Expeditions.

See | Do | Shop

  • Most of the sightseeing in the area would be situated in and around Leh, but the 400-year-old Hemis monastery lies within the park. It hosts the annual Hemis festival in June/July. 
  • From Rumbak, do a day trek to Yurutse, the single-home village of Hemis.
  • The homestays of Hemis are a great way to sample local dishes. Don’t shy away from trying the food, whether it suits your palate or not. Hot and fresh Ladakhi bread goes very well with jams and sauces (carry some pouches as all homestays might not be well stocked) for breakfasts. Wash this down with butter tea or cinnamon tea, both of which are usually readily available in the kitchen. Meat is a luxury, so dried vegetable soups and simple dishes such as steamed lentil dumplings and gyathuk (kneaded flour dumplings in vegetable stew) will largely be on the menu.
  • Some of the local women have been trained by the Snow Leopard Conservancy Trust to knit adorable woolen marmots and snow leopards. These make for great souvenirs, and help provide a little extra income for households.


Good to know

  • Leh is the closest big town where you will find ATMs, fuel, convenience stores and rations (for campers). Rumbak village has a small dispensary but proper medical facilities are only available at Leh.
  • The park entry fee is ₹20 for Indians and ₹100 for foreigners.
  • Phone connectivity in Hemis is erratic. In and around villages you might get network, especially on BSNL and sometimes Airtel, but deep in the park, the chances are slim.
  • Nearly every home in Hemis has the Ladakhi dry compost toilet. At other times, you’ll have to make do by going behind a shrub or a nice big rock.
  • Make sure you acclimatise well once you reach Leh, especially if you are flying in and the altitude increase is not gradual.
  • If travelling in winter, keep a few extra days as a buffer for flight delays and cancellations, which are common at this time of the year.
  • It’s preferable to go with a guide – it’s safer, and you’ll get better information. Khenrab Phuntsog is a fabulous local naturalist who hails from the Chilling village in Hemis. His knowledge of the park is deep, and he has assisted in the making of several documentaries there, including one for the BBC. He is, however, often out on long forays into the park, so it’s good to drop him an email in advance to check his availability. Write to him at [email protected]

What to pack

  • Pack for the cold when heading to Hemis, no matter what time of the year you’re going. Summer days can get hot, specially while hiking, so carry layers that you can easily remove. Nights in Hemis will need warm clothing, and in the winters, you’ll need thermals, inner fleeces, gloves, a woollen hat and socks, and gaiters for the snow.
  • Other round-the-year equipment includes a rain jacket, toilet paper (unfortunately, this is not very environment-friendly), sunglasses, sun hat and sunscreen.
  • Camera gear, a pair of binoculars, and a flashlight with extra batteries will prove useful.
  • Carry trail mix and energy bars even if you are staying at homestays, because you won’t get additional snacks for the day there.
  • Your favourite tea bags or coffee pouches, just in case you don’t take to butter tea.
  • Personal medication and a first aid kit.

 

For photographers

Wildlife photographers will have the opportunity to shoot ibex, bharal or Himalayan Blue Sheep, the Tibetan Wolf, argali or Tibetan sheep, the Red Fox, and if they’re lucky, the Himalayan Brown Bear and the Snow Leopard. The Hemis National Park is also the only habitat of the Ladakhi Urial in India, so ask your guide to point one out if he happens to spot it. The Rumbak valley is home to birds such as the Red-billed Chough, Tibetan Snowcock and Himalayan Snowcock

don't miss

In the winters, catch a game of ice hockey if you can. Games take place around Leh in different spots, including en route Hemis.

Budget per person

In Hemis, personal expenses will be next to nothing, other than food and stay which is around ₹1,000 per person per day. Guide charges per day are also similar. If you’re going camping with a trekking agency, expenses will go up to at least ₹2,500 per day. Hiring horses and ponies to ferry your luggage will be an additional cost; charges vary with the trek route.

Shikha Tripathi is a journalist based in Binsar in Uttarakhand. Born and brought up in the Himalayas, she writes on adventure, travel and Himalayan ecology. She posts as @shikhasgreendiary on Instagram.

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