Keoladeo Ghana National Park

A unique wetland habitat, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and a paradise for both birds and bird lovers

Raji Sunderkrishnan

Keoladeo Ghana National Park

Bharatpur, a small town in eastern Rajasthan, is synonymous with the bird sanctuary it is home to – the Keoladeo Ghana National Park, an important wintering ground for migrant birds like ducks, geese, coots, cranes and pelicans. The park was also the wintering site of the critically endangered Siberian Crane (unfortunately, last seen here in 2002), besides many other globally threatened species.

Dominated by wetlands, the national park also has woodland, swampland and farmland habitats. In addition to the birds, the park is home to mammals like the Nilgai, Sambar, Chital, Wild Boar, Rhesus Macaque, Hanuman Langur, Smooth-coated Otter, Black-naped Hare, jackal, hyena, porcupine, mongoose, and a couple of civet and smaller cat species. A few species of snakes, turtles, amphibians and fish too are a part of the park’s biodiversity.

Plan Your Trip

Getting there

Air

Agra (60 km; 75 min away) is the nearest airport. However, Jaipur (190 km; 3 hrs away) and Delhi (200 km; 4 hrs away) offer better flight connectivity than Agra.

Rail

Bharatpur Junction is well-connected by trains from Delhi, Mumbai, Agra, and cities in Rajasthan.

Road

Bharatpur is at a comfortable driving distance from popular tourist destinations like Agra (60-75 min), Jaipur (3 hrs) and Delhi/NCR (4 hrs). It is often a stop for tourists on the Golden Triangle circuit.

best time to visit

  • November to February is the coolest time of the year, with the lowest temperatures ranging from 7-15°C. Mornings in the park can feel much colder though. This season is the best for bird-watching enthusiasts, as this is when you can sight the winter migrants.
  • April to July are the hottest months, with day temperatures of over 40°C. The wetlands sometimes have very little water in summer, and only resident birds can be seen during this time. It is, however, a good time to view Sarus Cranes engaged in courtship behaviour.
  • August and September are the monsoon months, when most resident birds begin mating and nesting. It isn’t the best time to spot birds, but visitors hoping to sight mating rituals and nest-building behaviours should exercise caution in not hindering these activities.
  • March and October are pleasant transitional months, with temperatures of around 18-20°C. The advantage is there are fewer crowds during these months, except, of course, during the Dussehra and Diwali holidays.

History

Keoladeo is one of the names of Lord Shiva, and Ghana means ‘dense’, referring to its vegetation. Unlike our other protected spaces, however, Keoladeo Ghana was not a naturally existing habitat; it was created from scratch. It was created not as a conservation effort, but as a hunting ground for Bharatpur’s royal family and the British in the late 19th Century. 

The Keoladeo jheel (lake) always existed, on which the Maharaja of Bharatpur created dykes and bunds. Controlled water was released into this area, and native trees and plants were planted to attract a variety of birds for the purpose of shooting them. Today, the area is one of India’s most unique and best wetland habitats for birds.

Though declared a bird sanctuary a few years after Indian Independence, the royal family retained hunting rights until the Wildlife Protection Act in 1972 made it illegal. 

The sanctuary was declared a National Park in 1982. Spread across 29 sq.km, with over 360 documented bird species, Keoladeo Ghana National Park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985, and has remained so ever since.

Where to Stay

Many hotels are located at close proximity to the entrance of Keoladeo Ghana National Park. It is also possible to stay in Agra and do a day-trip to Bharatpur; however, this is not recommended for serious birdwatchers as the travel makes it difficult to utilise the full potential of the park, which is open from dawn to dusk.

High-end:

Hotel Laxmi Vilas Palace and Chandra Mahal Haveli are both good high-end options. Expect to spend around ₹6000-7,500 for a double room, inclusive of breakfast.

Mid-range:

The Birder’s Inn is highly recommended. Both the rooms and the food here are fantastic. A double room will cost you around ₹3500-4000 a night, inclusive of breakfast.

Another mid-range option is Hotel Sunbird.

The ITDC Bharatpur Forest Lodge is also an option. It has the advantage of being within the park’s gates, although user reviews have been mixed.

Budget:

The Iora Guest House is a great option for travellers on a budget. Another option is Hotel Saras, an RTDC hotel. A double room at these hotels will be priced at around ₹1200-1500 a night.

See | Do

  • The park has many well-defined trails – some more popular than the others – through varied habitats. Although they aren’t named, the guides know them and can point them out to you. Generally, the closer the trail is to the entrance, the more crowded it is, as most visitors don’t venture too far. Some trails are popular with regular photographers seeking specific sightings. Spend at least two days in the park to appreciate its diversity.
  • The boat safari is the only way to get close to the park’s swamplands and submerged grasslands. Late afternoons and early evenings are both good times to spot Nilgai and Sambar, besides aquatic birds.
  • Vehicles aren’t allowed inside the park. Cycle rickshaws are the best way to get around. You could also choose to walk, but it is impossible to cover the area on foot. Bicycling is also an option, but balancing camera gear while riding can be very tricky.
  • A good guide is essential, especially if you are interested in natural history. The park’s cycle rickshaw drivers are also knowledgeable about bird IDs and trails, and double up as guides.
  • The Interpretation Centre located close to the park’s entrance is worth a quick visit, especially for its life-sized models of a Sarus Crane pair.
  •  A day-trip to Chambal (110km; 2hr 15 min away) is easily possible from Bharatpur, and highly recommended. You can book the cab through your hotel. Once notorious for its dacoits, Chambal is home to the critically endangered Gharials and threatened Indian Skimmers, among a host of other wildlife, best seen from a boat safari on River Chambal.

Good to know

  • You will find facilities like ATMs, restaurants, pharmacies, convenience stores, petrol bunks and hospitals in Bharatpur
  • All major mobile phone networks provide good network coverage and data connectivity in the region.
  • Keoladeo Ghana National Park is open from dawn to dusk, with a minor seasonal variation in the exact sunrise and sunset timings. It is possible to spend the entire day within the park, as there is no restriction on the duration of a visit.
  • Walking around the national park is only feasible if you are covering the shorter trail up to the canteen area, but even that distance is almost 5km each way from the park’s entrance.

  • Bathrooms are available within the park near the canteen and at the Interpretation Center, but are poorly maintained.
  • Carry a packed lunch from your hotel, when spending the entire day at the national park. A couple of small canteens at designated areas within the park only offer water, tea, and snacks like biscuits and chips.
  • Chotu Khan, a local and an excellent naturalist, can help you plan your trip. Get in touch with him at +91-98292-77099 or [email protected]. Chotu grew up in the park, as his father is a veteran forest ranger.

What to pack

  • During summer, carry loose cotton clothes, a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen lotion.
  • During winter, carry layered warm clothing, a jacket, woollen cap, muffler, and gloves. Wear closed footwear with socks to stay warm.
  • Mosquito repellent will come in handy.
  • Make sure you have a torch for emergencies.
  • Your camera gear.
  • Binoculars, especially if you are an avid bird-watcher.
  • A bird-watching field guide.

For photographers

  • A telephoto lens of at least 300mm focal length is essential.
  • Carry a wide-angle lens (between 10mm and 24mm) which allows you to capture panoramas and compose photographs of birds in their habitat.
  • You could also carry your kit lens (between 18mm and 70mm). The ubiquitous Painted Storks are sometimes quite fearless and approach you at close quarters.
  • Be prepared for dense fog on winter mornings, which affects visibility and creates challenging conditions for photography. Carrying a tripod is essential for Bharatpur’s foggy and low-light conditions.
  • Ask your guide to take you to the park’s ‘Sunrise Point’ and ‘Sunset Point’, where it is possible to photograph birds against the flaming orange circle of the sun, a characteristic image from Bharatpur. People wait at these points, and the birds arrive as if on cue.

Don't Miss

  • Lohagarh Fort is located in the centre of Bharatpur town, but is poorly maintained compared to other forts in Rajasthan. It also has a museum within, which may be closed for renovation in 2017.
  • Ganga Mandir and Laxman Mandir are temples near the fort, with interesting stone architecture.
  • Bharatpur market is bustling especially in the evenings, and is a good place to pick up spices and knick-knacks.
  • Savoury kachoris served with piping hot gravy, jalebis and mawa kachoris are some local specialities available in the market area.
  • Deeg (35km; 45 min away), the summer home of Bharatpur’s royal family, was once famed for its ornate palace, lakes, fountains and gardens. Today, it is not too well maintained, but still makes for an interesting trip.
  • A day trip to Mathura (4km; 1 hr away) and onwards to Vrindavan (14km from Mathura) is easily possible. Both towns are associated with Lord Krishna. Holi is celebrated in both towns with a lot of fervour, so they attract many visitors and photographers at that time.
  • Architecture and history buffs can plan a long, hectic day trip to Fatehpur Sikri (25km; 30 min away) and Agra (60km; 75 min away from Bharatpur, and 35km if travelling onwards from Fatehpur Sikri). At a leisurely pace, it would take you more than two days to see the sights.

Budget per person

  • The national park’s entry fee is ₹75 for Indian nationals and ₹500 for foreigners, per day. Indian students pay only ₹20.
  • There’s no fee for still cameras. Video cameras and handycam charges are ₹600 for Indians and ₹900 for foreigners.
  • Hire cycle rickshaws for around ₹150 per hour.
  • Naturalists can also be hired as guides, at ₹250 per hour. If the group size is 10 or more, hiring a guide is compulsory. The rate for groups with more than 5 members is ₹400 per hour.
  • Bicycles can be hired at ₹25-40 for 3 hours. But they aren’t the best way to get around if you are a photographer carrying a lot of gear.
  • Horse tongas can also be hired at ₹300 per hour.
  • Boat safaris cost ₹75 per person per hour. An entire 4-seater boat can be booked at ₹300 per hour, while an 8-seater boat costs ₹600 per hour.
  • A four-night-five day trip will cost around ₹32,000-35,000 per person, including mid-range accommodation on a twin-sharing basis, food, a guide shared by two people, entry fees, transport within the park in an individual rickshaw, and a day trip to Chambal with costs shared between two people.
Raji Sunderkrishnan - Architect and Photographer

Raji Sunderkrishnan

Architect and Photographer

Raji Sunderkrishnan is an architect who ironically dreams about moving out of the concrete jungle someday. Her idea of bliss is being surrounded by mountains, water, or forests, and she especially enjoys traipsing through rainforests in the monsoons. She tweets as @raji1110 and posts as @rajisunderkrishnan on Instagram.

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