Dhikala
Soak in the majesty of the jungle while living in the heart of Jim Corbett's stomping grounds
Anuradha Marwah
Young elephants at play - safaris in Dhikala are a great opportunity to observe these gentle giants at close quarters. All photographs by Anuradha Marwah
Dhikala
The most popular zone of Jim Corbett National Park, Dhikala is one of the few locations in the country that allow visitors to spend a few days in the heart of the forest.
Established in 1936, Jim Corbett National Park is India’s first national park. It is nestled between the outer foothills of the Himalayas, the Shivalik Hills, and the north of the Indo-Gangetic Plain in the Terai region. The adjacent Sonanadi Wildlife Sanctuary and Reserve Forest, along with Jim Corbett National Park, constitute the Corbett Tiger Reserve.
This national park has been divided into six ecotourism zones: Dhikala, Bijrani, Jhirna, Sonanadi, Durgadevi and Dhela. The most famous denizens of this forest are the Bengal Tiger and the Asiatic Elephant.
Plan Your Trip
Getting there
Air
Indira Gandhi International Airport, Delhi (247km, 4.5 hours), is best-connected to the rest of the country. However, Pantnagar Airport (121km, 2 hours) and Jolly Grant Airport, Dehradun (185km,
3 hours), are the closest airports.
Rail
There are two direct trains from Delhi to Ramnagar and back.
Onwards:
- Uttarakhand Sampark Kranti – departs from Old Delhi station at 4:00pm; arrives at Ramnagar at 8:30pm (approximately 4.5 hours).
- Ranikhet Express – departs from Old Delhi station at 10:30pm; arrives at Ramnagar at 4:50am (approximately 6.5 hours); you can, in fact, head straight for a safari if you travel by this train (having made the requisite arrangements in advance, of course).
Return:
- Ramnagar Delhi Link Express – departs from Ramnagar at 9:50am; arrives at Old Delhi station at 3:25pm (approximately 5.5 hours).
- Corbett Park Link – departs from Ramnagar at 10:00pm; arrives at Old Delhi station at 3:55am (approximately 6 hours).
Road
You can drive down to Ramnagar, the closest town to Jim Corbett National Park, from Delhi, Moradabad, Bareilly and Nainital. State transport buses ply regularly from Delhi, Moradabad and Haldwani to Ramnagar.
You can follow these routes:
- Delhi-Hapur-Moradabad-Kashipur-Ramnagar (250km, 4.5 hours away).
- Dehradun-Haridwar-Dhampur-Kashipur-Ramnagar (230km, 4 hours away).
- Nainital-Kaladhungi-Ramnagar (66km, approximately 1 hour away).
Alternatively, you can travel upto Haldwani/ Kashipur/ Kathgodam via rail and then drive down to Ramnagar.
best time to visit
The Dhikala Tourist Complex overlooks the Kanda ridge and a grassland below, through which the meandering Ramganga flows into the reservoir. The river bed is dotted with Chital and elephants, and some mornings, the wake-up call for the safari is a Sambar Deer’s loud honk or a Chital’s shrill call.
Dhikala is open to tourists from November 15 to June 15. The park is closed during the monsoon since Dhikala chaur (grassland) gets flooded. It is not accessible till the water recedes completely, normally until early summer.
While the weather remains pleasant for most part of the year, the temperature does drop to 3°C or 4°C in peak winter. Winters are the best time to sight otters and for birding.
During summers, the temperature can go up to 40°C during the day; however, the nights do cool down and are pleasant. You get to spot herds of elephants in Dhikala chaur during this season. The Ramganga river becomes a gathering place for prey and predator alike, and you can see the majestic tigers of the Terai soaking in the blue waters.
Stay
There are four different rest house complexes in Dhikala (₹7,500 to ₹8,500 per room per night; inclusive of meals, safaris; subject to change).
Dhikala: Dhikala was opened to the public in 1975. It also has the distinction of being the launch location of Project Tiger. The original building at Dhikala is a heritage building - the old Forest Rest House (FRH) that was built in 1890. Additions to the complex were made later.
Gairal: This FRH was built in 1903 on the banks of Ramganga River where it enters the park. The area is teeming with birdlife.
Sarapduli: The hilly slopes surrounding the FRH that was built in 1908 are a great place to spot the elusive Himalayan Goral (Naemorhedus goral).
Sultan: This is the first FRH you will encounter on the road to Dhikala. It was built in 1903. Surrounded by towering sal trees, it is a tranquil location ideal for a small family vacation.
Dhikala is accessible from the Dhangari gate, which is 18 km from Ramnagar town. From the gate, the Dhikala Tourist Complex is a 40km drive inside the forest.
All rest houses have independent rooms and dormitories except Sultan which has only two rooms. The rooms are clean and comfortable with basic amenities; however, all rest houses in Dhikala zone have limited power supply (they are solar-powered); except the Dhikala FRH, which has 24x7 electricity.
The Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam manages catering services at Gairal and Dhikala FRHs, and serves fixed buffet meals. The FRHs at Sultan and Sarapduli have fully equipped kitchens; you only need to buy groceries at Ramnagar, and the food will be cooked by caretakers.
Gallery
The grassland in Dhikala is one of the best places in the country to observe and photograph elephants. However, this can only be done in the summer, once the water has receded from this area.
Spend as many hours as you can in the grassland and watch large herds move around feeding. It is a great opportunity to observe young elephants as they play and interact with other members of the herd.
Large herds of elephants often gather near the Ramganga river to mud bathe. Not only is it necessary for grooming and hygiene, it is also a social activity.
Dhikala is also one of the best places to watch and photograph tigers up close.
In summers when the temperature soars, tigers make their way to the Ramganga river and lie down in the cool water.
It is possible to photograph tigers at close distances in Dhikala; a telephoto lens with a range of 400mm works well.
The tower on Sambar Road has a wonderful view of the forest; and if you are lucky, you might see an elephant herd crossing the river far below.
In winter, sightings of Smooth-coated Otters (Lutrogale perspicillata) are likely to happen around Sambar Road and Ghethia.
A Cinereous Vulture (Aegypius monachus) joins Himalayan Griffon Vultures (Gyps himalayensis) to feast on the remains of a Chital (Axis axis).
The Indian Hog Deer (Hyelaphus porcinus) is a small deer and can be seen around the grassland. A shy animal, it can easily be mistaken for a Chital when seen from a distance.
The Golden Jackal (Canis aureus) is one of the large mammals that can be seen in Dhikala.
The world's longest venomous snake, the King Cobra (Ophiophagus hannah), can also be seen in this range.
Look out for one of the largest and most beautiful kingfishers, the Crested Kingfisher, along the Ramganga river.
An incredible array of pheasants live in the Himalayas and some of them can be seen in Dhikala too, like this Red Junglefowl (Gallus gallus).
Female Khalij Pheasants have a dull brown plumage but striking red eyes. You can spot them along the main road.
Dhikala is home to a wide variety of birds, like these Pin-tailed Green Pigeons (Treron apicauda).
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See | Do | Shop
- Take the elephant safari towards areas that are hard to access; you never know what you might find. You can opt for this instead of the regular Jeep safari and book it via the reception at Dhikala FRH.
- Check out the almost-360° view from the Sambar Road watch tower, there might be a tiger crossing the river or elephants indulging in a mud bath; or you may just see a Pallas’s Fish Eagle fly by at eye level. This stop at the watch tower can only be made during a safari and not after hours.
- In summers, do watch the sun go down by the reservoir in the grassland.
- In winters, make sure to watch the misty sunrise from Sambar Road.
- Look out for Brown Fish Owls around the Khinnanalui chaur.
- If you're lucky, you will be able to see the elusive Green Magpie near the waterhole by the palms.
- In winter, you are likely to spot otters around Sambar Road and Ghethia.
- You can observe crocodiles and gharials from the Crocodile Point near Gairal. Also look out for Golden Mahseer (also known as Tiger of the Ramganga) in the river.
Good to know
- Ramnagar town is the closest town with access to an ATM, fuel station, and hospital. It is best to stock up on all basic necessities here.
- If you are staying at Sultan or Sarapduli, remember to buy rations at Ramnagar town.
- Cell phone network is limited and available only for select network providers at select spots. Vodafone and Idea work best.
- Safari hours are long and the Forest Rest Houses or chowkis can be used for bathroom breaks.
- In winters, safari timings are from 6:30am to 11:00am and from 1:00pm to 5:30pm. In summers, the timings are from 5:30am to 10:30am and from 3:00pm to 7:00pm. However, this could change mid-season and is at the discretion of the park authorities.
What to pack
- Winters can be extremely cold, so don’t forget to pack caps, gloves, socks and multiple layers of woollen clothing. A good quilted or down jacket and closed footwear are a must.
- In winters, carry a thermos bottle so that you can store hot water. It can be quite comforting at night, as well as during the early morning safari hours.
- In summers, make sure to pack loose cotton clothing, hats/ caps, shades, sunscreen, and mosquito repellents.
- Binoculars.
- A good field guide on the birds of the Himalayas.
For photographers
- Carry a wide angle lens; you wouldn’t want to miss photographing the grandeur of this landscape in any season. Elephants in the grassland also make good subjects to shoot with this lens.
- A good telephoto lens would be handy for bird photography.
- Tigers and elephants can easily be photographed with lenses of the focal length of 70mm to 400mm.
- In summers, carry a cloth to cover your camera equipment as some routes can be very dusty.
In Between Safaris
- Don’t miss the wildlife movie showcase in the evening at the Dhikala Amphitheatre.
- If you enjoy reading, check out the library in the Dhikala FRH.
- Spend time on the deck of the Dhikala FRH complex overlooking the grassland and river. Cell reception is good here; but only for voice calls, data connectivity is almost negligible.
Budget per person
A two-night, three-day visit for two people including accommodation, safaris and food will cost upwards of ₹25,000. Tips, personal expenses, and travel to and from Ramnagar will cost extra. Accommodation can be booked online through http://corbettonline.uk.gov.in/ or through a travel agent. Bookings need to be secured 45 days in advance for Indians and 90 days in advance for foreign nationals. If you aren’t able to secure a booking inside Dhikala, day visits to the Dhikala ecotourism zone are only permitted by specially conducted buses, which can be booked online via the same portal.
Tuesday, 31 January, 2017
We love a good critique but are infinitely partial to compliments. Both, roars and birdsong are welcome at [email protected]
Anuradha Marwah
Wildlife Photographer
An ex-IT Marketing professional, Anuradha has worked with Microsoft and NIIT. She gave up the corporate world five years ago to pursue wildlife photography and now travels extensively across national parks. Her love for nature and exposure to wildlife began in Assam while growing up amongst the lush green tea estates in the Brahmaputra Valley. Her photographs have, over the years, earned her many awards and accolades. She tweets as @anuradhams and posts as @anumarwah12 on Instagram.
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