Kanha National Park

The national park is open from October 1 to June 30 every year. It remains shut during monsoon season and so are most of the resorts and lodges, though buffer zones are sometimes open. Naturally, peak tourist time is during the holidays and long weekends, so if you want to avoid crowds don’t plan your trip during these dates.

October to November: The park is covered in thick post-monsoon foliage and is green and beautiful. But it may be difficult to spot tigers during this period. Those waiting for the off-season to get over, book their safaris with new enthusiasm.

December to March: This can be considered the best time to visit Kanha as the winter weather slowly gives way to early spring. Sightings are good and you get to see a wide variety of mammals and birds. The tigers also settle into their routes and territories making tracking easier.

April to June: The beginning of summer is the mating season for birds, providing a lot of activity that will excite avian enthusiasts. As temperatures rise, the large animals come out to the water bodies and can be seen up close. If you aren’t daunted by the heat, this is the best time for tiger watching.

• At the top of the list are safaris into the national park, conducted by the forest department. Tickets should be booked well in advance – you can do it online or through the lodge where you plan to stay. There are morning and evening safaris and you should plan to do a maximum number so that you can soak in the flora and fauna, and not just go on a tiger chase.
• The forest department has marked out guided walking trails (approx. 8km) on the edges of the park’s core area and these are the best way to experience Kanha on foot. Apart from this, your lodge might organise nature walks on their grounds or village visits in the neighbourhood.
• The chase to see tigers, which is what most tourists come to Kanha for, can get quite stressful and lead to noisy melees. It is best to ask your lodge to arrange for an experienced driver/naturalist who can anticipate such situations and get you the best angles.

• A combination of 70-200 and 100-400 or 200-500 tele-zoom lenses works well for wildlife, while a 16-35 or 24-105 is handy for habitat and landscape shots. Specialists will obviously keep two bodies and carry prime lenses. But do note that animals are used to vehicles and can come fairly close.
• The chase to see tigers, which is what most tourists come to Kanha for, can get quite stressful and lead to noisy melees. It is best to ask your lodge to arrange for an experienced driver/naturalist who can anticipate such situations and get you the best angles.
• A full day safari is highly recommended for those who can afford it. Primarily a filming/photography permit, it gives four people access to all tourist zones and an opportunity to experience the park on your own terms.

• Binoculars and cameras are recommended to make the best of your safaris. Also make sure to carry a good field guide and bird book.
• Sunscreen, hat, mosquito repellent, water bottle.
• During the months from December to February, pack clothing for extreme cold – down jacket, leggings, cap, gloves, scarf, buff – morning safaris are in near-freezing temperatures.
• During October to November and March to April, it is advisable to carry a light jacket or hoodie and a buff/mask for the morning safaris.
• From May to June, be sure to pack sun hats, glares and thin cotton clothes that cover your arms and legs as protection against sun and insects, and a buff/mask for dust.

• Plan your safari zones according to the gate where your resort is situated. There are four core tourist zones: Mukki, Kanha, Kisli and Sarhi; three buffer zones: Khapa (Mukki side), Khatiya, and Sijhora (Sarhi side); and a sanctuary, Phen, which is away from all the gates.
• Khatiya Gate has access to all four core zones while Mukki Gate has access to the Kanha, Kisli and Mukki zones, and Sarhi Gate has access to Kanha, Kisli and Sarhi. The approach to the Sarhi gate is not well developed as yet.
• Do note that the park has a speed limit of 30km and it takes at least two hours to reach Kanha or Kisli zones and return to the Mukki Gate. The reverse holds true for travelling to the Mukki zone from Khatiya Gate.
• The three buffer zones organise similar safaris and are usually treated as the last option if tickets to the core zone are sold out. However, these can hold surprises and it is good to find out in advance if any sightings are happening in the buffer region. Khapa and Khatiya are close to the main tourism hubs, whereas Phen and Sijhora are further away and need advanced planning.

• Shop at the well-stocked souvenir stores at Mukki and Khatiya gates and the Kanha zone breakfast point inside, all run by park employee cooperatives. The Khatiya entrance has other private shops as well. You can also check out the “Baiga Haat” which is a collection of stalls selling local produce, wild honey and handicrafts.
• ATMs and chemists are available on both Mukki and Khatiya sides, with more options at the former. The Sarhi side is quite isolated.
• Recommended reading to enhance your Kanha experience: Photographic Field Guide to Wildlife of Central India by David Raju and Surya Ramachandran; A Field Guide to the Birds of the Indian Sub-continent by Krys Kazmierczak;
  Birds of the Indian Sub-continent by Grimmett, Inskipp and Inskipp; Jungle Trees of Central India by Pradip Krishen.