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Peora

This Kumaoni hamlet is a charming blend of colonial architecture, fruit orchards, pine forests and panoramic Himalayan views

Smriti Mukerji

Nanda Devi and her sisters: a sight for those lucky enough, on days clear enough. Photograph: Aadya Singh

Peora

Peora is a quaint little hamlet in the Kumaon hills of Uttarakhand, located 25km downhill from Mukteshwar. The region enjoys a smattering of snowfall in peak winters, and becomes a balmy retreat in peak summer. This is why Peora attracts a wide range of flora and fauna – the pine forests here are inhabited by over 150 varieties of animals including foxes, Neelgai, leopards and jackals.

Picturesque Peora is perched aloft gently rambling hillsides peaking at about 6,000 feet. Besides the chance to observe its impressive biodiversity and meet the kindly hill-folk that call it home, Peora is worth a visit just for its rambling old British-era bungalows as well. It gives you a taste of life without the distractions of modernity. Places like this let you perfect the long-forgotten art of whiling away your time, a real life skill in our harried world.

Plan Your Trip

Getting there

Air

The flight from Delhi to Pantnagar takes an hour. You’ll need to take a taxi to Peora, which is about three hours away.

Rail

An overnight train, the Ranikhet Express, travels from Delhi to Kathgodam in eight hours. The taxi from Kathgodam to Peora will take about three hours.

Road

The recommended route is Delhi-Moradabad-Kashipur-Ramnagar-Kaladhungi-Nainital-Bhowali-Khairna-Talla-Peora, which will take you about 10 hours.

best time to visit

Enjoy the many different moods of Peora through the seasons. Temperatures range from sub-zero in the winters to the low-forties on a really hot day in the peak of summer. In fact, the best time to visit might just be between seasons. September to November are good months to go, with median temperatures and crisp conditions making it ideal for photography enthusiasts.

Spring: Between March to mid-April, go to enjoy the blooms and the clear views of snowy peaks.

Monsoon: Peora is greenest during the monsoon if you don’t mind a torrential downpour, or all the bugs and toads that abound in rainy conditions. Although the government has been on high alert about potential flash floods since 2013, Peora is not too far from the plains, so the risk isn’t too high. As long as you’re cautious, being there during the monsoons is a whole different experience.

Stay

Peora is dotted with charming little cottages – some fancy new holiday homes, others homely bungalows of yore.

High-end

Peora recently went luxe with The Orchard, a villa that showcases the laidback charms of the hamlet in style. Rooms are priced at  ₹15,500 - ₹32,500 and include breakfast and dinner.

Mid-range

Dak Bungalow at Peora: The Guptas run this cute homestay from their British-era mansion. The couple serves wonderful vegetarian fare and some refined tea, and provide just the right setting to unwind. As unobtrusive hosts, they are happy to let you be. But should you want a little company, they’re also happy to oblige.  ₹3000 for a suite, inclusive of breakfast. Contact Pradeep Gupta for details: +919719816154.

Gallery

See | Do

  • Walk along the many wooded trails shaded by deciduous and alpine trees, although many would say that the best way to enjoy the flora and fauna in Peora is to cycle through its forest trails.
  • From certain vantage points on the trails, you can enjoy panoramic views of snow-clad peaks of the Greater Himalayas, including the Char-Dham peaks.
  • Enjoy a gourmet farm-to-fork meal at The Orchard, which takes great pride in creating treats from organic produce grown locally.
  • Peora has over 200 species of birds and 150 species of insects. You can spot animals like leopards, Wild Boar, deer, Neelgai, jackals and foxes at dawn and dusk. Look out for the Red Jungle Fowl, Himalayan Bulbul, Kalij Pheasant, and the Black Francolin – to name a few.
  • The flora here is special too. The entire region is clad with sal, pine, oak, buruns (rhododendron) and kaphal (box myrtle) – typical of sub-alpine zones. There are also plenty of fruit trees.
  • Shop at Aarohi, a locally-run NGO which employs locals and markets produce like herbs, sauces, pickles and knitwear.
  • Check out the local school run by Aarohi as well, set up as an alternative education model for village kids, and their rural hospital, which provides care to over 4000 villagers a year and is housed in a lovely old British building.

Good to know

  • Local orchards grow pears, plums, peaches and apples in the summer, between May and July. They are good to pluck and eat fresh on strolls.
  • Remember: wild mushrooms are best picked in the company of an expert, as they could be poisonous.
  • As beautiful as Peora is in rainy weather, leeches are plentiful in this season. Make sure you have a pair of good boots for your afternoon walks through the woods.


What to pack

  • In summer, light woollens and cottons will suffice; in winter, carry windcheaters and heavy woollens.
  • Make sure you’ve taken your sturdiest pair of walking shoes and cotton socks.
  • Passing afternoon showers aren’t uncommon in summer, so umbrellas will come in handy here at most times of the year.
  • Because Peora enjoys mild conditions for several months of the year, mosquitos and flies are common here. Carrying insect repellents is a good idea.
  • Carry binoculars for bird-watching.
  • It’s a good idea to have a few books, indoor games or painting paraphernalia around, to keep you preoccupied when you aren’t out exploring.  

For Nature Enthusiasts

  • Trekking trails criss-cross ancient shrines, waterfalls and streams. There are many ideal settings for picnics and photo-ops.
  • You can hire a local vehicle and guide to go bird-watching and animal spotting, with the company of an expert guide.  Contact The Orchard for details.
  • Remember to always carry a rain-protection cover for your professional camera since passing showers are a common occurrence in Peora.

Don't Miss

  • A two-hour drive will take you to Jageshwar, a district of 124 exquisite temples. The largest temple here is the Mahamrityunjay temple. The temple of Shiva is east-facing and the linga is worshipped as the saviour from death and negativity.
  • You could take an hour’s ride into Almora town, and visit the Panchachuli weaver’s factory where the NGO has trained over 1000 women in the art of weaving shawls and woollens. Shop for vibrant merino, pashmina and wool garments.

Budget per person

For a trip to Peora, you should expect to spend around  ₹2,000 per day per person.

You’ll need to carry extra cash for souvenirs and trinkets, of course.

Smriti Mukerji - Writer and Entrepreneur

Smriti Mukerji

Writer and Entrepreneur

Smriti Mukerji is a Delhi-based writer, entrepreneur, wellness enthusiast and lover of indigenous architecture. She dreams of one day setting up organic settlements that are one with nature, and also, an institution that promotes the spiritual wisdom of indigenous cultures from across the globe.

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